18. Flank

66 Preston St BN1 2HE
Up-and-coming chef Tom Griffiths runs the kitchen at the Royal Sovereign pub as a kind of permanent pop-up, serving a meaty menu that showcases plenty of technique. Sausages are made in house, there’s a whole lot of pickling and fermenting going on, and meat is barbecued on a kamodo Japanese grill. The 72-hour Dexter short rib, which is finished on the barbecue, is a triumph.